Cape of Good Hope, Our Hotel in Stellenbosch, Rob Davidowitz, Ron and winery dog, Bev.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Stellenbosch and the Wine Country
Cape of Good Hope, Our Hotel in Stellenbosch, Rob Davidowitz, Ron and winery dog, Bev.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Capetown
Monday October 7, 2008
Cape Town, what a great experience. Not unlike Sydney or San Diego it is a fun loving city in a stunning location. Table Mountain looms in the background and the sea ahead-Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic. Like the rest of South Africa the disparity of haves and have nots is alarming. But the diverse population lives in multicultural harmony. We are staying at the Radisson Waterfront Hotel. We check in and leave our luggage as it is too early to check in and head for Longstreet to do some shopping. We come back to the hotel, check in and eat lunch outside overlooking the ocean front. The aircraft carrier the Theodore Roosevelt is anchored in the harbor,
We arrange to meet our guide, Rob Davidowitz at 1 PM. Rob, an Afrikkaner, is a former SA AF pilot, flying a number of aircraft, including the Shackleton, as well as Hunter fighters. He is a charming fellow and manages to give us a history lesson about South Africa, “explain apartheid”, and take us to the very place (a balcony city hall) where Nelson Mandela had spoken to the crowd after being released from prison only hours before. Rob said that it was only the second time in his life when it felt as if all South Africans came together as one-the other time being the time they won the World Cup, He then took us to District 6, In 1948 a whole community (black and colored) were forcibly relocated, had their homes and businesses bulldozed. Today it is a huge vacant area and a suitable monument to this huge injustice. Then Rob took us to the District 6 museum, which I can only compare to the emotional impact of going to Anne Frank’s home in Amsterdam. Rob drove us up Table Mountain and the cable car was not operating because of wind. Still a spectacular view of the city! He took us back to the hotel and we relaxed, had internet connection and left for Camps Bay and a drink at a lovely bar and on to dinner at a great seafood restaurant that Rob had recommended-the Codfather. (Rob is our new Rick Steves!)
Sunday Rob picked us up in his Honda CRV and we drove to Kirstenbosch Gardens... This is a must see to any Cape Town visitor! Rob was so knowledgeable, about herbs, native plants and this was a real learning experience! We saw three plants that are our gift from South Africa, bird of paradise, geraniums (of all sorts) and agapanthus. I could have stayed there all day. We headed around the Cape Peninsula, saw lots of wild life and the African penguins on the South Cape. We had lunch on the coast, a wonderful seafood curry with mussels. We drove back up Table Mountain for another try at the cable car-closed due to wind. Along the coast we had watched sail boarders and kite boarders (what an exciting sport!). Then we took in the view from signal hill and back to the hotel for a bit of relaxation and CNN. We then headed for the Victoria and Albert Waterfront and dinner at a nice seafood restaurant.
To our great disappointment we were unable to get a tour to Robben Island (a prison for political prisoners) where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. The tours were fully booked. One admirable aspect of South Africa is the way they seem to have learned from the terrible injustice of the past and not shied away from them.
October 6
We spent the morning downtown shopping for mementoes and Rob picked us up at 1 Pm and we headed for Stellenbosh and the wine country. We are staying in the oldest Inn in the country-the O’Ouwe Werf. What a treat. The town is the home of the Afrikkans University (it reminds us of UCD in that it is the place to go for winemaking) but the town is far more interesting than Davis. Stellenbosh is a charming village. We walked around and visited the city museum, which were 4 old houses from the 16th-17th Centuries. The Dutch had settled here and this little village is a monument to the Dutch presence in South Africa. The thatched roofs and ornate gables are reminiscent of those in Amsterdam. Last night we had a delightful dinner in the Inn where we are staying. It was a perfect evening to sit outside and enjoy ostrich and local wine. We turned in early in anticipation of our last night in South Africa.
Rob picked us up at nine and we headed for the wine county. Why is it that wine growing regions look so much alike? We could have been in Sonoma or New Zealand. We tasted pinotage and Chenin Blanc that made me rethink my idea of Chenin Blanc. This was light, grassy and tasted of asparagus. In all we visited 4 wineries-Jordan (selling in the US under the label of Jardin), Beyerskloof, Villiera and Rupert and Rothchild. The wine was wonderful and Rob was a wonderful guide and host. At Villiera we tasted wine and paired it with food. A challenge and great fun. What goes best with spicy nuts, apricots, dark chocolate? Dogs were as prevalent as they are in our wine country. Every tour with Rob turned into an interesting and informative discussion about the larger social concerns. We learned that the wine maker at Beyerskloof (an MP of the ANC party) had made his money, moved to a smaller winery and taken the workers that had been with him 10 years and gave them part of the land to do with as they wanted. They are now very successful winemakers and he served as their consultant. He is an Afrikkaner and a Christian who lives his belief. Another winery, Villiera has very nice homes for the workers and has employed the women to collect the snails which were a major pest in the vineyards. The women learned how to feed the snails cornmeal and turn then into escargot. They then took their earnings and built a nursery school for the children of workers. Empowerment of people is the goal of these white South Africans. And all of this has happened so quickly, since 1994 when the black and colored people were allowed to vote for the first time. By the way, I saw several Obama bumper stickers and other evidence that the American election is of great interest in Africa.
Cape Town, what a great experience. Not unlike Sydney or San Diego it is a fun loving city in a stunning location. Table Mountain looms in the background and the sea ahead-Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic. Like the rest of South Africa the disparity of haves and have nots is alarming. But the diverse population lives in multicultural harmony. We are staying at the Radisson Waterfront Hotel. We check in and leave our luggage as it is too early to check in and head for Longstreet to do some shopping. We come back to the hotel, check in and eat lunch outside overlooking the ocean front. The aircraft carrier the Theodore Roosevelt is anchored in the harbor,
We arrange to meet our guide, Rob Davidowitz at 1 PM. Rob, an Afrikkaner, is a former SA AF pilot, flying a number of aircraft, including the Shackleton, as well as Hunter fighters. He is a charming fellow and manages to give us a history lesson about South Africa, “explain apartheid”, and take us to the very place (a balcony city hall) where Nelson Mandela had spoken to the crowd after being released from prison only hours before. Rob said that it was only the second time in his life when it felt as if all South Africans came together as one-the other time being the time they won the World Cup, He then took us to District 6, In 1948 a whole community (black and colored) were forcibly relocated, had their homes and businesses bulldozed. Today it is a huge vacant area and a suitable monument to this huge injustice. Then Rob took us to the District 6 museum, which I can only compare to the emotional impact of going to Anne Frank’s home in Amsterdam. Rob drove us up Table Mountain and the cable car was not operating because of wind. Still a spectacular view of the city! He took us back to the hotel and we relaxed, had internet connection and left for Camps Bay and a drink at a lovely bar and on to dinner at a great seafood restaurant that Rob had recommended-the Codfather. (Rob is our new Rick Steves!)
Sunday Rob picked us up in his Honda CRV and we drove to Kirstenbosch Gardens... This is a must see to any Cape Town visitor! Rob was so knowledgeable, about herbs, native plants and this was a real learning experience! We saw three plants that are our gift from South Africa, bird of paradise, geraniums (of all sorts) and agapanthus. I could have stayed there all day. We headed around the Cape Peninsula, saw lots of wild life and the African penguins on the South Cape. We had lunch on the coast, a wonderful seafood curry with mussels. We drove back up Table Mountain for another try at the cable car-closed due to wind. Along the coast we had watched sail boarders and kite boarders (what an exciting sport!). Then we took in the view from signal hill and back to the hotel for a bit of relaxation and CNN. We then headed for the Victoria and Albert Waterfront and dinner at a nice seafood restaurant.
To our great disappointment we were unable to get a tour to Robben Island (a prison for political prisoners) where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. The tours were fully booked. One admirable aspect of South Africa is the way they seem to have learned from the terrible injustice of the past and not shied away from them.
October 6
We spent the morning downtown shopping for mementoes and Rob picked us up at 1 Pm and we headed for Stellenbosh and the wine country. We are staying in the oldest Inn in the country-the O’Ouwe Werf. What a treat. The town is the home of the Afrikkans University (it reminds us of UCD in that it is the place to go for winemaking) but the town is far more interesting than Davis. Stellenbosh is a charming village. We walked around and visited the city museum, which were 4 old houses from the 16th-17th Centuries. The Dutch had settled here and this little village is a monument to the Dutch presence in South Africa. The thatched roofs and ornate gables are reminiscent of those in Amsterdam. Last night we had a delightful dinner in the Inn where we are staying. It was a perfect evening to sit outside and enjoy ostrich and local wine. We turned in early in anticipation of our last night in South Africa.
Rob picked us up at nine and we headed for the wine county. Why is it that wine growing regions look so much alike? We could have been in Sonoma or New Zealand. We tasted pinotage and Chenin Blanc that made me rethink my idea of Chenin Blanc. This was light, grassy and tasted of asparagus. In all we visited 4 wineries-Jordan (selling in the US under the label of Jardin), Beyerskloof, Villiera and Rupert and Rothchild. The wine was wonderful and Rob was a wonderful guide and host. At Villiera we tasted wine and paired it with food. A challenge and great fun. What goes best with spicy nuts, apricots, dark chocolate? Dogs were as prevalent as they are in our wine country. Every tour with Rob turned into an interesting and informative discussion about the larger social concerns. We learned that the wine maker at Beyerskloof (an MP of the ANC party) had made his money, moved to a smaller winery and taken the workers that had been with him 10 years and gave them part of the land to do with as they wanted. They are now very successful winemakers and he served as their consultant. He is an Afrikkaner and a Christian who lives his belief. Another winery, Villiera has very nice homes for the workers and has employed the women to collect the snails which were a major pest in the vineyards. The women learned how to feed the snails cornmeal and turn then into escargot. They then took their earnings and built a nursery school for the children of workers. Empowerment of people is the goal of these white South Africans. And all of this has happened so quickly, since 1994 when the black and colored people were allowed to vote for the first time. By the way, I saw several Obama bumper stickers and other evidence that the American election is of great interest in Africa.
Monday, October 6, 2008
River Club, Zambia
Thursday, October 2
We are at the River Club in Livingston, Zambia, a grand English style hotel with 6 guests, all American. It feels a long way from the Bush, Botswana and Savuti Camp. Our last game ride was great; we followed a leopard for at least half an hour, hoping she would lead us to her cubs. We gave up as the guide decided she was hunting. Our last night their was a real Celebration of their independence from Britain. Like our 4th of July, flags were everywhere (sky blue background with black and white strips in the middle. After the singing and dancing we danced in a line to the kgotla (an outdoor meeting place where village meetings are held.) When they sang their anthem it was a joyous moment. These Botswanans love their country! That evening we were treated to typical Botswana meal-shredded beef, beans, spinach, and corn meal mush-all eaten with out hands. I was selected to be the chief woman, partly because I was the only guest wearing a skirt. I was given a shawl and a giraffe tail and I removed the scarf around my neck and tied it in my hair as custom demanded a hat. The Chief was another American guest. Our ceremonial duties were minimal but a lot of fun.
The next morning we got up early and Goodman took us to the runway at Chobe. Ron dipped the fuel and we started to taxi and got mired in the sand. Goodman, Ron and I pushed the plane onto the Calcrete runway and were off by 8:45 am. The air was hazy due to smoke and dust. I have not written much about the flying aspect of the trip. The Hanks have provided maps and photos of each runway. The hazards are bird strikes (the usual hazard anywhere) and animals on the runway. Usually our guide runs the vehicle up and down the runway to chase away any animals... The heat and winds contribute to some turbulence. Landings have been not up to Ron’s usual as crosswinds seem to be the normal. We will have flown a total of 1473 miles, about 14 hours in total-12 days in the bush. Many of these camps have been only accessible by air and most people fly in on small charter plans. We have yet to meet up with any others that are flying themselves. We fly around 120 knots and 3500-8500 altitude. From the air I have not seen any animals but lots of water holes and animal trails leading to them. I saw only 1 paved road in Botswana. We landed at Kasane for fuel and then on to Livingston, Zambia. We flew over the magnificent Victoria Falls; a mist fills the air as the water cascades 360 feet into a huge gorge. Rafting, bungee jumping and kayaking are also done here. We have had our thrill from the wild animals and are content to walk along the top of the falls. Remember, this is the dry season and the flow is 4% of the rainy season. The other great physical feature of the area is the Zambezi River-about three times as big as the Sacramento River and it serves as the boundary between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Our hotel sits on the bank of the Zambezi, and our hotel room looks out on it. The River is full of crocodiles and hippos. Last night we took a river cruise with another couple staying at the hotel and drank vodka tonic as we watched the animals, including mating baboons, a small croc sunning and hippos in the water.
The River Club driver was waiting for us at the airport and we drove to the hotel. I notice litter, never seen in Botswana, and people walking along side of the road. Maybe this is not a fair comparison as were never in a city in Botswana. Zambia has suffered a lack of good leadership and is economically very poor. AIDS is a real epidemic here and Ron saw a large box of condoms in the men’s room at the airport.
Today we were able to post some of the blog but the internet connection would not upload any of the photos. Keeping a blog up in Africa has proven to be more of a challenge than we had imagined.
Today we visited the falls, the Livingston museum and a village of 3,000 people living without electricity. Several wells provide the water for the community. We visited the primary school and were very impressed. One of the teachers showed us around the simple school, with outside toilets and a small garden of tomatoes and onions. We saw small mud huts with thatched roofs and separate outdoor cooking areas. We saw a satellite dish and the guide explained to us that they have a TV powered by car batteries which are charge by solar cells during the day. They can communally watch a couple of hours of TV every night. The head woman of the village inherited her position in 1971 from her father and she lives in Livingstone. I asked where the chief lived and our guide told me a palace. When we got back to the hotel we ate lunch by the pool and when went to our room for a siesta. Tonight we take another river cruise and eat communally. Last night we ate with a guy who is some kind of contractor in the Middle East and what a character. He had lots of stories and I’m not sure what to believe. He and his younger South African wife live in Dubai.
Time for high tea and comparing stories with the other guests. The second river cruise was a delight, the sky was full with little black birds and it took 20 minutes for them to pass. It looked as if the birds were flying out of the red setting sun and making ribbons of black along the sky where it met the horizon. We say the usual hippos and another small crocodile. The couple that took the cruise was an Army officer and his German wife. He was on “terminal leave” from the Army and his wife Stefanie was a therapist. We spent a companionable dinner with them and an assistant manager from the hotel. Yesterday we got up early and left for Jo’Berg.
A few impressions of Zambia. I saw lots of beautiful Jacaranda trees-purple blooms that look like lilacs. So lovely. Also, people walking along the road, the women with huge loads on their heads. Lots of litter. The economy is very bad and the result was men eager to help with bags and showing you the ropes at the airport. They were very happy to have US dollars. In fact, their currency was never used-only rand and dollars. Luckily I was prepared with lots of dollar bills.
Yesterday was Friday, October 3 and we set off on the long flight from Livingston to Jo’berg. Took off at 9 and flew along the Zambezi River to avoid Zimbabwe airspace. It was hot. By the time we got to Francistown we gassed up, paid fees and headed for Lanseria. Part of the time we enjoyed a tailwind. We ate the sandwiches that the hotel had packed and I napped a little and helped navigate. We got to Jo’Berg and it was hot and smoky-bad visibility. We circled the airport at Lansaria for 40 minutes because the field was IMC due to smoke. Airplanes were queued up and waiting or diverting to other airports. Ron requested a Special VFR clearance and we were finally permitted to fly the approach. 5.7 hours in the air.
The Hanks were there to meet us and neither of us could stop relaying our adventure. Ron refueled the airplane, we unloaded and their driver took us to the Intercontinetial Hotel at the Jo’berg airport. We showered and met them for dinner in the dining room. Nick took notes of small details on the plane and we talked about the animals we’d seen, the accommodations, our impressions and next trips in Africa. In the room we turned on CNN and BBC news and saw a rerun to the VP debates and news of Congressional action on the Banking Bailout. Our first news in twelve days. Somewhere along the line we heard that Paul Newman had died and the Steve Fosset's body had been found.
Saturday morning we are on Mango Air flying towards Cape Town. Mango Air is a bargain airline kind of like Southwest. Colorful paint jobs and quite cheap tickets. More from Cape Town
We are at the River Club in Livingston, Zambia, a grand English style hotel with 6 guests, all American. It feels a long way from the Bush, Botswana and Savuti Camp. Our last game ride was great; we followed a leopard for at least half an hour, hoping she would lead us to her cubs. We gave up as the guide decided she was hunting. Our last night their was a real Celebration of their independence from Britain. Like our 4th of July, flags were everywhere (sky blue background with black and white strips in the middle. After the singing and dancing we danced in a line to the kgotla (an outdoor meeting place where village meetings are held.) When they sang their anthem it was a joyous moment. These Botswanans love their country! That evening we were treated to typical Botswana meal-shredded beef, beans, spinach, and corn meal mush-all eaten with out hands. I was selected to be the chief woman, partly because I was the only guest wearing a skirt. I was given a shawl and a giraffe tail and I removed the scarf around my neck and tied it in my hair as custom demanded a hat. The Chief was another American guest. Our ceremonial duties were minimal but a lot of fun.
The next morning we got up early and Goodman took us to the runway at Chobe. Ron dipped the fuel and we started to taxi and got mired in the sand. Goodman, Ron and I pushed the plane onto the Calcrete runway and were off by 8:45 am. The air was hazy due to smoke and dust. I have not written much about the flying aspect of the trip. The Hanks have provided maps and photos of each runway. The hazards are bird strikes (the usual hazard anywhere) and animals on the runway. Usually our guide runs the vehicle up and down the runway to chase away any animals... The heat and winds contribute to some turbulence. Landings have been not up to Ron’s usual as crosswinds seem to be the normal. We will have flown a total of 1473 miles, about 14 hours in total-12 days in the bush. Many of these camps have been only accessible by air and most people fly in on small charter plans. We have yet to meet up with any others that are flying themselves. We fly around 120 knots and 3500-8500 altitude. From the air I have not seen any animals but lots of water holes and animal trails leading to them. I saw only 1 paved road in Botswana. We landed at Kasane for fuel and then on to Livingston, Zambia. We flew over the magnificent Victoria Falls; a mist fills the air as the water cascades 360 feet into a huge gorge. Rafting, bungee jumping and kayaking are also done here. We have had our thrill from the wild animals and are content to walk along the top of the falls. Remember, this is the dry season and the flow is 4% of the rainy season. The other great physical feature of the area is the Zambezi River-about three times as big as the Sacramento River and it serves as the boundary between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Our hotel sits on the bank of the Zambezi, and our hotel room looks out on it. The River is full of crocodiles and hippos. Last night we took a river cruise with another couple staying at the hotel and drank vodka tonic as we watched the animals, including mating baboons, a small croc sunning and hippos in the water.
The River Club driver was waiting for us at the airport and we drove to the hotel. I notice litter, never seen in Botswana, and people walking along side of the road. Maybe this is not a fair comparison as were never in a city in Botswana. Zambia has suffered a lack of good leadership and is economically very poor. AIDS is a real epidemic here and Ron saw a large box of condoms in the men’s room at the airport.
Today we were able to post some of the blog but the internet connection would not upload any of the photos. Keeping a blog up in Africa has proven to be more of a challenge than we had imagined.
Today we visited the falls, the Livingston museum and a village of 3,000 people living without electricity. Several wells provide the water for the community. We visited the primary school and were very impressed. One of the teachers showed us around the simple school, with outside toilets and a small garden of tomatoes and onions. We saw small mud huts with thatched roofs and separate outdoor cooking areas. We saw a satellite dish and the guide explained to us that they have a TV powered by car batteries which are charge by solar cells during the day. They can communally watch a couple of hours of TV every night. The head woman of the village inherited her position in 1971 from her father and she lives in Livingstone. I asked where the chief lived and our guide told me a palace. When we got back to the hotel we ate lunch by the pool and when went to our room for a siesta. Tonight we take another river cruise and eat communally. Last night we ate with a guy who is some kind of contractor in the Middle East and what a character. He had lots of stories and I’m not sure what to believe. He and his younger South African wife live in Dubai.
Time for high tea and comparing stories with the other guests. The second river cruise was a delight, the sky was full with little black birds and it took 20 minutes for them to pass. It looked as if the birds were flying out of the red setting sun and making ribbons of black along the sky where it met the horizon. We say the usual hippos and another small crocodile. The couple that took the cruise was an Army officer and his German wife. He was on “terminal leave” from the Army and his wife Stefanie was a therapist. We spent a companionable dinner with them and an assistant manager from the hotel. Yesterday we got up early and left for Jo’Berg.
A few impressions of Zambia. I saw lots of beautiful Jacaranda trees-purple blooms that look like lilacs. So lovely. Also, people walking along the road, the women with huge loads on their heads. Lots of litter. The economy is very bad and the result was men eager to help with bags and showing you the ropes at the airport. They were very happy to have US dollars. In fact, their currency was never used-only rand and dollars. Luckily I was prepared with lots of dollar bills.
Yesterday was Friday, October 3 and we set off on the long flight from Livingston to Jo’berg. Took off at 9 and flew along the Zambezi River to avoid Zimbabwe airspace. It was hot. By the time we got to Francistown we gassed up, paid fees and headed for Lanseria. Part of the time we enjoyed a tailwind. We ate the sandwiches that the hotel had packed and I napped a little and helped navigate. We got to Jo’Berg and it was hot and smoky-bad visibility. We circled the airport at Lansaria for 40 minutes because the field was IMC due to smoke. Airplanes were queued up and waiting or diverting to other airports. Ron requested a Special VFR clearance and we were finally permitted to fly the approach. 5.7 hours in the air.
The Hanks were there to meet us and neither of us could stop relaying our adventure. Ron refueled the airplane, we unloaded and their driver took us to the Intercontinetial Hotel at the Jo’berg airport. We showered and met them for dinner in the dining room. Nick took notes of small details on the plane and we talked about the animals we’d seen, the accommodations, our impressions and next trips in Africa. In the room we turned on CNN and BBC news and saw a rerun to the VP debates and news of Congressional action on the Banking Bailout. Our first news in twelve days. Somewhere along the line we heard that Paul Newman had died and the Steve Fosset's body had been found.
Saturday morning we are on Mango Air flying towards Cape Town. Mango Air is a bargain airline kind of like Southwest. Colorful paint jobs and quite cheap tickets. More from Cape Town
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Sevuti Camp, Northern Botswana
We were called to high tea by the drums, lovely. All the other guests are Americans on a group tour. One man called me over to show me an elephant outside the dining hall. I was nice but wanted to say, “I’ve been in the bush eleven days and walked with elephants and been kissed by one “But I refrained.
Goodman took us on a nice tour and we saw a couple of sad things. A small elephant with a very short trunk and a short tall. He said that they have been watching it for 5 yeas and did not know if it was an accident or congenital. Due to the fact that it is not growing normally they decided it was congenital. The good news is that it seems to be adapting and gets down on its knees to eat grass with its mouth instead of using its truck to bring the food to its mouth. Elephants stay with their Mothers for years and are very protected by the herd so maybe this is why it has survived. Later in the afternoon we saw vultures circling and went to check it out-always hoping to see a cat kill or some excitement. As we got closer we could smell a foul smell and Goodman said that it was a giraffe that had died of natural causes as if something had killed it they would have eaten it right away, It was very recognizable as a large giraffe, We stopped and had our sundowner (cocktail)
And Goodman told me he was 35 and had one child, a 7 month old. In a few days he goes home to Kasane and will negotiate the bride’s price to marry here. It will be between 6 and 8 cows paid to the brides family, negotiated by an uncle of the bride.
September 30, 2008
Today is Botswana’s Independence day-42 years ago they negotiated freedom from England. The camp is festooned with flags-sky blue background with a black stripe. Dinner will be some sort of entertainment from the staff. Last night’s dinner we the 14 guests and Terry-the Camp Manager, a typical Girl Scout Camp Director sat at one end of the long table and Goodman at the other. Guides typically eat with the guests as do camp managers. Conversation was lively. A couple from Orange County, both radiologists, is quite friendly and has traveled a lot of interesting places. Amazingly she and her husband and Ron have a mutual friend in Sacramento. She is a pilot and most interested in the fact that we are flying ourselves. We slept well in our luxurious accommodations.
As I write this blog I am sitting at the desk and just beyond our deck is a small body of water and at least 11 elephants are grazing at the edge and wading in the water! All this 100 feet from where I sit. Elephants have to be one of my favorites just because they are so social and take such good care of their babies.
This morning we were awakened by 5:50, had breakfast at 6 and were on the road by 6:30. We say a pride of lions napping under a tree, on either side of the vehicle. They were full from a feast. We saw a downed elephant nearby and Goodman said that it had been dead when the lions came across it. This pride has ten lions but only the 8 females were there. One was tearing at the lung of the elephant, eating large chunks, and the stench was pretty strong-Goodman said that they lions would move on as they did not feed at stinky food and the hyenas and vultures would finish it off.
We saw lots of hippos this morning. Wildebeest and zebras grazing on a large flat plain, herds of elephants everywhere. Luckily the lush brush accommodates the destructive feeding nature of them.
I asked Goodman how they came to win their independence from Britain and he said “we negotiated it.” Earlier I had asked him about how the various tribes got along and he told me that they coexist and today he told me that if there are disagreements they sit down and work it out. It almost makes me feel that he can’t imagine how big nations can’t figure it our. I think the examples of killing and war so close has made them very thankful. Zimbabwe borders them and is a disaster. As a cook from Baines Camp told me-I am blessed to be a Botswanan. Goodman also told me that Botswana had the strongest currency in Africa (the pula) and the number 1 economy. He said that they have diamonds and the money they bring in is helping to build the infrastructure-road, schools and hospitals.
Have I written about termite mounds? When I first saw them near Jo’Berg they looked very much like rocks in the field. They are so individual-some red where the dirt is red, most beige or grey. In the Delta where the water table is high they can be huge constructions. Organized rather like a bee hive they have 3 generations of queens. The termites drag leaves inside and use enzymes that they have to break them down into nutrition. Inside the hives are heating and air-conditioning systems and they are frequently go as much into the ground as the hive that is visible on top of the ground. I will have to do some reading on them as they sound fascinating. I would look them up on the internet but alas-no internet.
This camp has a darling gift shop but I have decided not to buy anything until I get to Cape Town at the end of the trip.
I was thinking today that we did an exceptional job packing for this trip. We have everything we need and not much with us that we have not used. They fact that they do laundry in every camp has made it easy to get along with less. The hot and cold temperature ranges make it necessary to layer up and peel off in the afternoon. The game rides can be chilly but they provide wool lap robes in every vehicle.
It seems strange to have had no news for 8 days-since Jo’Berg. One of the Camp managers said that when the Pope died he read about it 9 days later in an old newspaper. He said it makes you realize how irrelevant what happens in the rest of the world is when you are in the bush.
Ron and Bev
Goodman took us on a nice tour and we saw a couple of sad things. A small elephant with a very short trunk and a short tall. He said that they have been watching it for 5 yeas and did not know if it was an accident or congenital. Due to the fact that it is not growing normally they decided it was congenital. The good news is that it seems to be adapting and gets down on its knees to eat grass with its mouth instead of using its truck to bring the food to its mouth. Elephants stay with their Mothers for years and are very protected by the herd so maybe this is why it has survived. Later in the afternoon we saw vultures circling and went to check it out-always hoping to see a cat kill or some excitement. As we got closer we could smell a foul smell and Goodman said that it was a giraffe that had died of natural causes as if something had killed it they would have eaten it right away, It was very recognizable as a large giraffe, We stopped and had our sundowner (cocktail)
And Goodman told me he was 35 and had one child, a 7 month old. In a few days he goes home to Kasane and will negotiate the bride’s price to marry here. It will be between 6 and 8 cows paid to the brides family, negotiated by an uncle of the bride.
September 30, 2008
Today is Botswana’s Independence day-42 years ago they negotiated freedom from England. The camp is festooned with flags-sky blue background with a black stripe. Dinner will be some sort of entertainment from the staff. Last night’s dinner we the 14 guests and Terry-the Camp Manager, a typical Girl Scout Camp Director sat at one end of the long table and Goodman at the other. Guides typically eat with the guests as do camp managers. Conversation was lively. A couple from Orange County, both radiologists, is quite friendly and has traveled a lot of interesting places. Amazingly she and her husband and Ron have a mutual friend in Sacramento. She is a pilot and most interested in the fact that we are flying ourselves. We slept well in our luxurious accommodations.
As I write this blog I am sitting at the desk and just beyond our deck is a small body of water and at least 11 elephants are grazing at the edge and wading in the water! All this 100 feet from where I sit. Elephants have to be one of my favorites just because they are so social and take such good care of their babies.
This morning we were awakened by 5:50, had breakfast at 6 and were on the road by 6:30. We say a pride of lions napping under a tree, on either side of the vehicle. They were full from a feast. We saw a downed elephant nearby and Goodman said that it had been dead when the lions came across it. This pride has ten lions but only the 8 females were there. One was tearing at the lung of the elephant, eating large chunks, and the stench was pretty strong-Goodman said that they lions would move on as they did not feed at stinky food and the hyenas and vultures would finish it off.
We saw lots of hippos this morning. Wildebeest and zebras grazing on a large flat plain, herds of elephants everywhere. Luckily the lush brush accommodates the destructive feeding nature of them.
I asked Goodman how they came to win their independence from Britain and he said “we negotiated it.” Earlier I had asked him about how the various tribes got along and he told me that they coexist and today he told me that if there are disagreements they sit down and work it out. It almost makes me feel that he can’t imagine how big nations can’t figure it our. I think the examples of killing and war so close has made them very thankful. Zimbabwe borders them and is a disaster. As a cook from Baines Camp told me-I am blessed to be a Botswanan. Goodman also told me that Botswana had the strongest currency in Africa (the pula) and the number 1 economy. He said that they have diamonds and the money they bring in is helping to build the infrastructure-road, schools and hospitals.
Have I written about termite mounds? When I first saw them near Jo’Berg they looked very much like rocks in the field. They are so individual-some red where the dirt is red, most beige or grey. In the Delta where the water table is high they can be huge constructions. Organized rather like a bee hive they have 3 generations of queens. The termites drag leaves inside and use enzymes that they have to break them down into nutrition. Inside the hives are heating and air-conditioning systems and they are frequently go as much into the ground as the hive that is visible on top of the ground. I will have to do some reading on them as they sound fascinating. I would look them up on the internet but alas-no internet.
This camp has a darling gift shop but I have decided not to buy anything until I get to Cape Town at the end of the trip.
I was thinking today that we did an exceptional job packing for this trip. We have everything we need and not much with us that we have not used. They fact that they do laundry in every camp has made it easy to get along with less. The hot and cold temperature ranges make it necessary to layer up and peel off in the afternoon. The game rides can be chilly but they provide wool lap robes in every vehicle.
It seems strange to have had no news for 8 days-since Jo’Berg. One of the Camp managers said that when the Pope died he read about it 9 days later in an old newspaper. He said it makes you realize how irrelevant what happens in the rest of the world is when you are in the bush.
Ron and Bev
Flying in Southern Africa
You have to divide up this topic into South Africa and the rest. SA has a modern Air Traffic Control system similar to that of Europe. English is spoken, albeit with strong accents, and ICAO standard terminology is used. Lanseria Airport, where I took my qualification checkrides, is a modern facility with excellent maintenance, include heavy aircraft overhauls. All of the players were represented, Pratt and Whitney, Cirrus, Cessna, the major avionics manufacturers, etc. Tower visits are encouraged. Aviation is, however, very bureaucratic. Flight plans must be filed for all flights, landing fees, ATC fees, and other user fees are also charged. One person in the tower is essentially a billing clerk who notes charges as you operate. There is radar coverage in parts of the country, but you mostly do position reports like we did in France in the 70's.
Much more information is requested by ATC. The proper call for taxi clearance in the US would be "N2629R is ready for taxi with information India" In SA the call was "Good morning Lanceria ground, ZS-WAT is ready to taxi. We are two crew, no passengers, destination Thorneybush estimating 2 hours enroute with 5 hours 30 minutes endurance."
Once airborne the transmissions are similar with ATC asking for your time estimates to various points along the route. Everyone is very courteous, but the radio load is high.
The bush fields are rough and require that you "buzz" then before landing to ensure no animals are on them. Hyenas tend to eat tires, so some have a fenced in area for parking while others require that thorn bushes be cut and stacked over the tires to discourage their consumption. You are met at these fields, some of which are 45 minutes from camp, but a ranger who was radioed your ETA.
Leaving SA for Botswana you are struck by the vast distances and lack of any sign of man on the ground. You might fly for an hour with out seeing a road. There are very few places to purchase avgas in the country, so fuel management is very important. Theoretically there are remote transmitters which allow you to report your position to ATC. In flights which covered the country from S to N, and E to W, I was never able to contact anyone. As previously indicated, Limpopo Valley International Airport-one runway, a thatched "terminal"-has a tower. My calls went unanswered and the ranger who met us said they could hear me calling but the tower controller was on holiday and there was no one to answer me.
Fuel, when available, is very paperwork intensive. A full page form is completed including details about the purchaser address etc, the routing of the aircraft, certification that the pilot has inspected the fuel etc. No fuel is self service, and the operators were all cheerful and helpful. Costs were similar to what we pay in the US.
While I would overlook the refueling Bev would complete the paperwork vis a vis landing feels, ATC fees etc. Again, everyone was very helpful and polite. One of the things which struck us about dealing with SA, Botswanans, and Zambians is the degree of courtesy extended and expected. Everyone shook hands, inquired about you and how your day was going, etc. Once we got the hang of it the interactions were always pleasant.
Security at the small airports was nonexistent. At the larger ones it was laughable. As an example, at Polokwane, an airport in Northern SA we had to process through customs and immigration as we were leaving for Botswana. After the fuel and user fees dance we were directed to take our bags to security screening. I parked the aircraft out on the ramp, and Bev and I took one bag each into the terminal- we left the rest in the airplane. We put our bags on the x-ray machine, collected them at the other end and walked back out to our airplane. The female customs agent and a male policeman walked out with us, holding hands. The policeman glanced into our heavily loaded airplane, said "ok" and they strolled off.
Navigation is by dead reckoning and GPS. Winds aloft were available in SA, but no where else. Airfields are few and far between, and the charts are old-1980's vintage, and pretty unreliable. You need to pay attention.
This time of the year the bush is being burned as many of the tribes still do slash and burn farming. We would fly for as long as an hour with no visible horizon due to smoke. The poor visibility in the air was a disappointment.
Flying was fun, challenging, and exciting.
Ron
Much more information is requested by ATC. The proper call for taxi clearance in the US would be "N2629R is ready for taxi with information India" In SA the call was "Good morning Lanceria ground, ZS-WAT is ready to taxi. We are two crew, no passengers, destination Thorneybush estimating 2 hours enroute with 5 hours 30 minutes endurance."
Once airborne the transmissions are similar with ATC asking for your time estimates to various points along the route. Everyone is very courteous, but the radio load is high.
The bush fields are rough and require that you "buzz" then before landing to ensure no animals are on them. Hyenas tend to eat tires, so some have a fenced in area for parking while others require that thorn bushes be cut and stacked over the tires to discourage their consumption. You are met at these fields, some of which are 45 minutes from camp, but a ranger who was radioed your ETA.
Leaving SA for Botswana you are struck by the vast distances and lack of any sign of man on the ground. You might fly for an hour with out seeing a road. There are very few places to purchase avgas in the country, so fuel management is very important. Theoretically there are remote transmitters which allow you to report your position to ATC. In flights which covered the country from S to N, and E to W, I was never able to contact anyone. As previously indicated, Limpopo Valley International Airport-one runway, a thatched "terminal"-has a tower. My calls went unanswered and the ranger who met us said they could hear me calling but the tower controller was on holiday and there was no one to answer me.
Fuel, when available, is very paperwork intensive. A full page form is completed including details about the purchaser address etc, the routing of the aircraft, certification that the pilot has inspected the fuel etc. No fuel is self service, and the operators were all cheerful and helpful. Costs were similar to what we pay in the US.
While I would overlook the refueling Bev would complete the paperwork vis a vis landing feels, ATC fees etc. Again, everyone was very helpful and polite. One of the things which struck us about dealing with SA, Botswanans, and Zambians is the degree of courtesy extended and expected. Everyone shook hands, inquired about you and how your day was going, etc. Once we got the hang of it the interactions were always pleasant.
Security at the small airports was nonexistent. At the larger ones it was laughable. As an example, at Polokwane, an airport in Northern SA we had to process through customs and immigration as we were leaving for Botswana. After the fuel and user fees dance we were directed to take our bags to security screening. I parked the aircraft out on the ramp, and Bev and I took one bag each into the terminal- we left the rest in the airplane. We put our bags on the x-ray machine, collected them at the other end and walked back out to our airplane. The female customs agent and a male policeman walked out with us, holding hands. The policeman glanced into our heavily loaded airplane, said "ok" and they strolled off.
Navigation is by dead reckoning and GPS. Winds aloft were available in SA, but no where else. Airfields are few and far between, and the charts are old-1980's vintage, and pretty unreliable. You need to pay attention.
This time of the year the bush is being burned as many of the tribes still do slash and burn farming. We would fly for as long as an hour with no visible horizon due to smoke. The poor visibility in the air was a disappointment.
Flying was fun, challenging, and exciting.
Ron
Baines Camp, Okvango Delta, Botswana
Saturday, Baines Camp in the Okavango Delta
After a long flight (4.4 hours total, two hops) we arrived in a beautiful, wet part of Botswana, We landed at Francistown for av gas and to pay landing fees. The currency is Pula. The forms used carbon paper. We had a lunch packed for us at Chupunga and ate in route, We landed at Stanley’s on a dirt strip and a Toyota land cruiser and our driver and guide Martin helped push the aircraft to a suitable spot and we headed for Baines Camp-45 minutes of bouncing, fording water that was so high it went over the hood of the vehicle and into the floor of the vehicle. Baines Camp is beautiful; buildings build on stilts and connected by raised walkways. The construction is amazing-the people collected aluminum cans, sealed in wire mesh and Hessian panels and finished with an elephant dung plaster. Only 5 rooms and 9 guests! The place is run by a young Irish woman who has been here for 10 years and 4 months ago married Charles, whose family owns a winery in Cape Town. Our room is darling, a king size bed, covered in mosquito netting that they roll out on our deck so we sleep under the stars. Water and wet lands surround is and the hippos are in the camp. An elephant hangs out in the camp. Like other camps we are free to walk around but after dark we are escorted around. The game drive last night was great, we saw all the usual and two spotted hyena puppies (? They are in the cat family) and they were so friendly I thought they would get in the vehicle! I think the mother was off hunting as we had seen a female adult earlier in the evening. We returned to camp around 8, took quick showers and gathered for cocktails on the deck with the other guests around a firepit. Very lively group, the Duff family from Michigan/London and his 3 adult children and one of their spouses. A nurse from Orange County rounded out the guests and Chas and Semma joined us. We ate at one large table and the wine and food was the best yet.
Around 5:30 we were awakened from our outdoor bed by a gentle voice. We found tea and rusks waiting on a table inside. We washed our faces and brushed our teeth and layered up, ate a quick breakfast in the dining area and headed out in two large vehicles to meet up with Doug and Sandi Groves (for more information and a look at the elephants go to Living with Elephants on the internet.) and their family of three elephants
Botswana is home to more elephants than anywhere else on the planet-25%. For the next 6 hours we learned more about these wonderful animals and grew to love them. Doug and Sandy’s mission is to educate people about them and to raise these three as healthy elephants that are truly ambassadors for their wild counterparts. The three consist of a bull, about 5 tons, and two cows. The bull and one of the cows have lived with Doug for 20 years after he rescued them from a cull. The second cow has been with them about 12 years, and he rescued her from being put down. Elephants are the longest living land mammals other then man. They require years of training by their parents and the herd. Deprived of this training by a cull, she turned to bad behaviour. With a 3 ton animal "bad behavior" includes killing rhinos and overturning cars. Doug said that for months she tried to kill him every chance she got. Thanks to his patience and the assistance of the other two elephants she has come around to the point that, like the other elephants, we were able to touch and examine her. The bull is so large that I could just wrap my arms around his foreleg. It was amazing to watch Sandy, Doug's wife, stroll around and under the bull. She was about 5 foot 1, and could walk under him without ducking. At round noon we found ourselves under some trees enjoying a wonderful lunch. The elephants ate nearby, a variety of elephant treats that had been trucked in.
After a short nap I am attempting to catch up on this blog that will be posted one of these days.
The Okavango Delta seems suited to be an elephant habitat, lush and green and with enough foliage to provide these huge animals the food they need without leaving a scarred landscape of trees ripped out of the group and bark eaten trunks. The down side of this beautiful area is the biting flies and humid heat. Mornings and evening are very pleasant but midday is hot.
Baines Camp has a free laundry service and we needed it after this morning. We hugged elephants, played with their trunks, walked with them with their trucks on our shoulders, were kissed by them, and heard a chorus of their vocalizations (which sound very much like a didgeridoo.
I have not detailed the animals lately because they are so common. Who would imagine that we could get rather blasé about seeing a giraffe or a troop of baboons, wonderful birds. They are everywhere and watching them is so enlightening. The guides are very knowledgeable and Martin has a great sense of humor and a great driver. The vehicle HAS a snorkel like thing that allows it to go into deep water.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Another great night of sleep on the deck under the mosquito net covered beds. We hear hippos in the nearby waterhole. Someone at breakfast reports hearing lions roar. Breakfast is a lovely buffet. Food at Baines has been the best. One of the guests suggests the cooks make a cookbook and we all agree we’d buy it. We bid the Duff family goodbye as they head out for a charter flight to another camp. We set out with Martin for our game drive around 6:30. It is cool this morning. I am wearing my jacket, long sleeve shirt, capris, hat and my Wolky boots. Sun is coming up and it feels fresh and exhilarating. We see a lovely group of zebras, giraffes and wildebeest grazing together, then head for a spot where a leopard tracks lead us. An impala hangs from a tree where it has been hoisted by a leopard. No sign of the leopard. The Impala is very common and easily seen and preyed on by lions and leopards. We see a very large troop of baboons and coming home a large group of elephants. A young cow charges the vehicle several times making a threatening roar. I must say it was a little frightening. Botswana has lovely smells, sort of herbal and fresh. Martin tells us that it has only 1.7 million people. They are really talking advantage of the natural resources to support themselves.
We are back in the room, reading and blogging and looking forward to tea and a boat ride to see hippos and crocodiles. Have I mentioned the laundry service? It is included in the cost and comes back everyday spotless and ironed and is left in a basket in our room and tied up in tissue paper with raffia. Have I mentioned that each game ride the guide stops and set us a table with tablecloth and serves us tea or coffee in the morning and a mixed drink in the afternoon, complete with appetizers? And South African wines are served with dinner and that they are great. Baines Camp may be the nicest yet. All the African crafts are made by the staff or families of the staff. I am tempted but would like to wait until the end of the trip to avoid hauling it for the next ten days.
September 29, Monday
Last night was quiet at Baines Camp as the other guests had departed. Instead of our usual game drive Martin took us on the delta in a small, open aluminum boat. We saw several hippos, lots of birds. African birds are spectacular in color and call. We drank a glass of wine by the firepit, joined by Semma and Chas, then a quiet meal-Springbok. It was superb, the best game I have ever eaten. Went to sleep on our mosquito net covered bed that had been rolled out on the deck under the stars.
This morning after breakfast we went on a mokoro (dug out canoe) one of the staff stood in the back and pooled us through the reeds and lily pads. The lily flowers are white to a dark shade of purple and every shade between. We saw the evidence of herds of elephants that cross from island to island. When the water is deep the babies ride on their mother’s backs. We saw tiny frogs that were difficult to spot as they blended with the brown and green reeds. The air was full of fresh grassy smells-Botswana smells so good. How can warm, wet delta smell so fresh?
I asked Charles if most Botswana’s were as happy with the government as Martin and the others were. He said yes, it was a very democratic government with good leadership and a process of involving the people in decisions. They have heath care, good schools and the government is successfully using the nature resources to employ the people and keep them in the rural areas.
After the mokoro ride we left for the airstrip. Martin has surrounded the tires with thorny bush to keep the hyenas from eating the tires. The cleared the runway with the Toyota and off we went. The flight to Sauvuti was to be 35 minutes but a strong head wind made it closer to an hour. Lots of small airstrips visible from the air as we left the lush Delta and headed north to a dryer region. Our guide, Goodman picked us up in a land rover and we headed to Savuti. Savuti has 5 large accommodations and 1 family tent that sleeps 4. More later as it is time for a nap in the huge bed, its 1:30 and the heat of the day.
After a long flight (4.4 hours total, two hops) we arrived in a beautiful, wet part of Botswana, We landed at Francistown for av gas and to pay landing fees. The currency is Pula. The forms used carbon paper. We had a lunch packed for us at Chupunga and ate in route, We landed at Stanley’s on a dirt strip and a Toyota land cruiser and our driver and guide Martin helped push the aircraft to a suitable spot and we headed for Baines Camp-45 minutes of bouncing, fording water that was so high it went over the hood of the vehicle and into the floor of the vehicle. Baines Camp is beautiful; buildings build on stilts and connected by raised walkways. The construction is amazing-the people collected aluminum cans, sealed in wire mesh and Hessian panels and finished with an elephant dung plaster. Only 5 rooms and 9 guests! The place is run by a young Irish woman who has been here for 10 years and 4 months ago married Charles, whose family owns a winery in Cape Town. Our room is darling, a king size bed, covered in mosquito netting that they roll out on our deck so we sleep under the stars. Water and wet lands surround is and the hippos are in the camp. An elephant hangs out in the camp. Like other camps we are free to walk around but after dark we are escorted around. The game drive last night was great, we saw all the usual and two spotted hyena puppies (? They are in the cat family) and they were so friendly I thought they would get in the vehicle! I think the mother was off hunting as we had seen a female adult earlier in the evening. We returned to camp around 8, took quick showers and gathered for cocktails on the deck with the other guests around a firepit. Very lively group, the Duff family from Michigan/London and his 3 adult children and one of their spouses. A nurse from Orange County rounded out the guests and Chas and Semma joined us. We ate at one large table and the wine and food was the best yet.
Around 5:30 we were awakened from our outdoor bed by a gentle voice. We found tea and rusks waiting on a table inside. We washed our faces and brushed our teeth and layered up, ate a quick breakfast in the dining area and headed out in two large vehicles to meet up with Doug and Sandi Groves (for more information and a look at the elephants go to Living with Elephants on the internet.) and their family of three elephants
Botswana is home to more elephants than anywhere else on the planet-25%. For the next 6 hours we learned more about these wonderful animals and grew to love them. Doug and Sandy’s mission is to educate people about them and to raise these three as healthy elephants that are truly ambassadors for their wild counterparts. The three consist of a bull, about 5 tons, and two cows. The bull and one of the cows have lived with Doug for 20 years after he rescued them from a cull. The second cow has been with them about 12 years, and he rescued her from being put down. Elephants are the longest living land mammals other then man. They require years of training by their parents and the herd. Deprived of this training by a cull, she turned to bad behaviour. With a 3 ton animal "bad behavior" includes killing rhinos and overturning cars. Doug said that for months she tried to kill him every chance she got. Thanks to his patience and the assistance of the other two elephants she has come around to the point that, like the other elephants, we were able to touch and examine her. The bull is so large that I could just wrap my arms around his foreleg. It was amazing to watch Sandy, Doug's wife, stroll around and under the bull. She was about 5 foot 1, and could walk under him without ducking. At round noon we found ourselves under some trees enjoying a wonderful lunch. The elephants ate nearby, a variety of elephant treats that had been trucked in.
After a short nap I am attempting to catch up on this blog that will be posted one of these days.
The Okavango Delta seems suited to be an elephant habitat, lush and green and with enough foliage to provide these huge animals the food they need without leaving a scarred landscape of trees ripped out of the group and bark eaten trunks. The down side of this beautiful area is the biting flies and humid heat. Mornings and evening are very pleasant but midday is hot.
Baines Camp has a free laundry service and we needed it after this morning. We hugged elephants, played with their trunks, walked with them with their trucks on our shoulders, were kissed by them, and heard a chorus of their vocalizations (which sound very much like a didgeridoo.
I have not detailed the animals lately because they are so common. Who would imagine that we could get rather blasé about seeing a giraffe or a troop of baboons, wonderful birds. They are everywhere and watching them is so enlightening. The guides are very knowledgeable and Martin has a great sense of humor and a great driver. The vehicle HAS a snorkel like thing that allows it to go into deep water.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Another great night of sleep on the deck under the mosquito net covered beds. We hear hippos in the nearby waterhole. Someone at breakfast reports hearing lions roar. Breakfast is a lovely buffet. Food at Baines has been the best. One of the guests suggests the cooks make a cookbook and we all agree we’d buy it. We bid the Duff family goodbye as they head out for a charter flight to another camp. We set out with Martin for our game drive around 6:30. It is cool this morning. I am wearing my jacket, long sleeve shirt, capris, hat and my Wolky boots. Sun is coming up and it feels fresh and exhilarating. We see a lovely group of zebras, giraffes and wildebeest grazing together, then head for a spot where a leopard tracks lead us. An impala hangs from a tree where it has been hoisted by a leopard. No sign of the leopard. The Impala is very common and easily seen and preyed on by lions and leopards. We see a very large troop of baboons and coming home a large group of elephants. A young cow charges the vehicle several times making a threatening roar. I must say it was a little frightening. Botswana has lovely smells, sort of herbal and fresh. Martin tells us that it has only 1.7 million people. They are really talking advantage of the natural resources to support themselves.
We are back in the room, reading and blogging and looking forward to tea and a boat ride to see hippos and crocodiles. Have I mentioned the laundry service? It is included in the cost and comes back everyday spotless and ironed and is left in a basket in our room and tied up in tissue paper with raffia. Have I mentioned that each game ride the guide stops and set us a table with tablecloth and serves us tea or coffee in the morning and a mixed drink in the afternoon, complete with appetizers? And South African wines are served with dinner and that they are great. Baines Camp may be the nicest yet. All the African crafts are made by the staff or families of the staff. I am tempted but would like to wait until the end of the trip to avoid hauling it for the next ten days.
September 29, Monday
Last night was quiet at Baines Camp as the other guests had departed. Instead of our usual game drive Martin took us on the delta in a small, open aluminum boat. We saw several hippos, lots of birds. African birds are spectacular in color and call. We drank a glass of wine by the firepit, joined by Semma and Chas, then a quiet meal-Springbok. It was superb, the best game I have ever eaten. Went to sleep on our mosquito net covered bed that had been rolled out on the deck under the stars.
This morning after breakfast we went on a mokoro (dug out canoe) one of the staff stood in the back and pooled us through the reeds and lily pads. The lily flowers are white to a dark shade of purple and every shade between. We saw the evidence of herds of elephants that cross from island to island. When the water is deep the babies ride on their mother’s backs. We saw tiny frogs that were difficult to spot as they blended with the brown and green reeds. The air was full of fresh grassy smells-Botswana smells so good. How can warm, wet delta smell so fresh?
I asked Charles if most Botswana’s were as happy with the government as Martin and the others were. He said yes, it was a very democratic government with good leadership and a process of involving the people in decisions. They have heath care, good schools and the government is successfully using the nature resources to employ the people and keep them in the rural areas.
After the mokoro ride we left for the airstrip. Martin has surrounded the tires with thorny bush to keep the hyenas from eating the tires. The cleared the runway with the Toyota and off we went. The flight to Sauvuti was to be 35 minutes but a strong head wind made it closer to an hour. Lots of small airstrips visible from the air as we left the lush Delta and headed north to a dryer region. Our guide, Goodman picked us up in a land rover and we headed to Savuti. Savuti has 5 large accommodations and 1 family tent that sleeps 4. More later as it is time for a nap in the huge bed, its 1:30 and the heat of the day.
On to Botswana
September 24
Brendan is an English descent South African, and Aurelia, our tracker, is a native. The tracker is amazing. He scans the bush as we drive on little dirt tracks or cross country. He is constantly sighting game, or tracks on the surface which we follow to game. He will occasionally jump off the Landrover to go into the bush to look for sign of game.
The animals are used to the Landrovers and ignore them. So long as you stay in the vehicle you can get right up to the game. We saw all kinds of antelope, Gnu or Wildebeest, Eagles, Giraffe, Zebra, Crocodiles, and monkeys. After dark, using a spotlight, we came on 4 adult female lions getting ready to hunt. We were parked in the midst of them, with them no more then 10 feet away. At one point one of them walked right next to the open Landrover to join the other three. They are like very large cats in their grooming behavior, licking themselves and the other members of the pride.
After the game ride we returned to the lodge for an outdoor dinner, again in a group. We went to bed early as the wake up call is at 5:00 am for the morning ride. It was cold and were all bundled up until the sun came up. The terrain reminds us of Arizona-high desert landscape with dramatic mountains in the background. This morning we saw more of the same, and added two male lions, siblings, from the pride the females belonged to. The guide explained that the two males were probably about to challenged their father, the dominant male in the pride, to take over. We later saw the dominant male lion who look pretty healthy. We added hippos to our sightings as well as an entire herd of elephants-perhaps 30 or 40. The herd was a breeding herd which means no adult males, just females and juveniles of various ages. The “teenagers” learn to care for the young by observing and interacting with the adult females. Again, the herd grazed past us close enough to touch.
The group is very compatible, One older American couple has departed and been replaced with a couple around our age from Atlanta-she is an artist and he is an attorney in finance. A young Australian couple is very interesting and the dinner conversation lively-economics, the Presidential election in the states and politics elsewhere. The young French couple excuse themselves early. Earlier in the evening they shared a bottle of champagne given them by the staff as they were honeymooners.
We get up at five for the morning game drive, shower and set off for the airstrip five minutes away. We love Chapungu Lodge and Thorney Bush and give it high recommendations. The plane is safe behind an electric fence from Baboons. We are dressed in pilot clothes and are both wearing epaulets-Ron with four strips and me with 3. This was recommended by the Hanks as it is easier in customs and immigration with 2 crew and no passengers. Boy, did I get a lot of attention. We land at Polokwane in South Africa. They scanned our baggage but left a load of equipment and more baggage in the back seat, which seemed to be of no interest to customs. Had our passports stamped and climbed the tower to file a flight plan and on to Limpopo Valley Airport. Another hour, hot and bumpy. Ron was unable to communicate with the tower and when we landed they said that they had heard us but that the controller was on holiday! Cutest airport ever! Only other airplane was a South African DC 3-shiny and just for show! Our driver collected our bags and we went to the thatched terminal and filed out a form, stamped our passports. Only about 3 Botswana men in the airport, we were off to Mashatu Lodge, a long, hot 45 minute ride in an open Toyota land cruiser. The tent cabins, 8 of them, are full. Some of these people are on their 6th-8th Safari and have been everywhere and some of them are in their 80’s and very impressive. The Lodge has a beautiful open thatched eating area, pool, watering hole for animals and an eclectic fence against elephants. We are warned to leave nothing in the open bathrooms off the tents and keep the tents zipped at all times. It seems that the monkeys are very fond of human cosmetics, shampoo and just about anything. I ask Daniel our guide why those monkeys have not figured out how to unzip the tents and he says if they were ever around and heard the zip noise they would figure it out. The tents are not quite like any you have seen-nice furniture, electricity, great beds and linens-even electricity. We are constantly charging the computer, cell phone OR Camera batteries. We have not posted on the blog as there has not been wireless. Phone works fine in Africa, we have not called US.
The game rides here at this camp are different. The tracker sits in the back of the Land cruiser and does not do much. In South Africa they wake you at 5, have a quick coffee, and hit the trail by 5:30 and the guide very much involved the 4 guests-identifying tracks, dung AND finding the animals. The tracker (Aurelia) and Brendan worked as a real team. Lots of good natured bantering back and forth. South Africans, black and white seem very good natured and relaxed In Botswana the camps are more informal, not as well run and the guides find the animals and point them out. In South Africa, it was more like-AND TONIGHT WE are looking for a leopard! Too many animals to name but we have seen the “big five” and so much more! My favorite was a white rhino mother and her 2-3 day old baby, male lions, a huge porcupine, large termite mounds (worthy of A PBS series). The amazing part is how close you get to most animals and how unafraid they are of the vehicles. You are cautioned never to stand up and to be very quiet when they are close by.
When we were at Chpungu Ron was in the shower, open to the outside and yelled at me to get the camera. A young female GIRAFFE was right outside the tent watching him shower. I could just imagine that she had a story to tell about this male human.
Time to Nap and shower for the Afternoon game drive and late dinner. We saw a pack of wild African dogs, a very rare sighting, here. The adult dogs were re-introduced, and have been very successful with about a dozen puppies. The males feed the puppies by regurgitating chunks of meat which the puppy pack swarms over. They are renowned hunters as a pack with a 90 % success rate. Beautiful to watch. Tomorrow have a long flight to the Baines Camp in Botswana, where we will be for three nights.
Brendan is an English descent South African, and Aurelia, our tracker, is a native. The tracker is amazing. He scans the bush as we drive on little dirt tracks or cross country. He is constantly sighting game, or tracks on the surface which we follow to game. He will occasionally jump off the Landrover to go into the bush to look for sign of game.
The animals are used to the Landrovers and ignore them. So long as you stay in the vehicle you can get right up to the game. We saw all kinds of antelope, Gnu or Wildebeest, Eagles, Giraffe, Zebra, Crocodiles, and monkeys. After dark, using a spotlight, we came on 4 adult female lions getting ready to hunt. We were parked in the midst of them, with them no more then 10 feet away. At one point one of them walked right next to the open Landrover to join the other three. They are like very large cats in their grooming behavior, licking themselves and the other members of the pride.
After the game ride we returned to the lodge for an outdoor dinner, again in a group. We went to bed early as the wake up call is at 5:00 am for the morning ride. It was cold and were all bundled up until the sun came up. The terrain reminds us of Arizona-high desert landscape with dramatic mountains in the background. This morning we saw more of the same, and added two male lions, siblings, from the pride the females belonged to. The guide explained that the two males were probably about to challenged their father, the dominant male in the pride, to take over. We later saw the dominant male lion who look pretty healthy. We added hippos to our sightings as well as an entire herd of elephants-perhaps 30 or 40. The herd was a breeding herd which means no adult males, just females and juveniles of various ages. The “teenagers” learn to care for the young by observing and interacting with the adult females. Again, the herd grazed past us close enough to touch.
The group is very compatible, One older American couple has departed and been replaced with a couple around our age from Atlanta-she is an artist and he is an attorney in finance. A young Australian couple is very interesting and the dinner conversation lively-economics, the Presidential election in the states and politics elsewhere. The young French couple excuse themselves early. Earlier in the evening they shared a bottle of champagne given them by the staff as they were honeymooners.
We get up at five for the morning game drive, shower and set off for the airstrip five minutes away. We love Chapungu Lodge and Thorney Bush and give it high recommendations. The plane is safe behind an electric fence from Baboons. We are dressed in pilot clothes and are both wearing epaulets-Ron with four strips and me with 3. This was recommended by the Hanks as it is easier in customs and immigration with 2 crew and no passengers. Boy, did I get a lot of attention. We land at Polokwane in South Africa. They scanned our baggage but left a load of equipment and more baggage in the back seat, which seemed to be of no interest to customs. Had our passports stamped and climbed the tower to file a flight plan and on to Limpopo Valley Airport. Another hour, hot and bumpy. Ron was unable to communicate with the tower and when we landed they said that they had heard us but that the controller was on holiday! Cutest airport ever! Only other airplane was a South African DC 3-shiny and just for show! Our driver collected our bags and we went to the thatched terminal and filed out a form, stamped our passports. Only about 3 Botswana men in the airport, we were off to Mashatu Lodge, a long, hot 45 minute ride in an open Toyota land cruiser. The tent cabins, 8 of them, are full. Some of these people are on their 6th-8th Safari and have been everywhere and some of them are in their 80’s and very impressive. The Lodge has a beautiful open thatched eating area, pool, watering hole for animals and an eclectic fence against elephants. We are warned to leave nothing in the open bathrooms off the tents and keep the tents zipped at all times. It seems that the monkeys are very fond of human cosmetics, shampoo and just about anything. I ask Daniel our guide why those monkeys have not figured out how to unzip the tents and he says if they were ever around and heard the zip noise they would figure it out. The tents are not quite like any you have seen-nice furniture, electricity, great beds and linens-even electricity. We are constantly charging the computer, cell phone OR Camera batteries. We have not posted on the blog as there has not been wireless. Phone works fine in Africa, we have not called US.
The game rides here at this camp are different. The tracker sits in the back of the Land cruiser and does not do much. In South Africa they wake you at 5, have a quick coffee, and hit the trail by 5:30 and the guide very much involved the 4 guests-identifying tracks, dung AND finding the animals. The tracker (Aurelia) and Brendan worked as a real team. Lots of good natured bantering back and forth. South Africans, black and white seem very good natured and relaxed In Botswana the camps are more informal, not as well run and the guides find the animals and point them out. In South Africa, it was more like-AND TONIGHT WE are looking for a leopard! Too many animals to name but we have seen the “big five” and so much more! My favorite was a white rhino mother and her 2-3 day old baby, male lions, a huge porcupine, large termite mounds (worthy of A PBS series). The amazing part is how close you get to most animals and how unafraid they are of the vehicles. You are cautioned never to stand up and to be very quiet when they are close by.
When we were at Chpungu Ron was in the shower, open to the outside and yelled at me to get the camera. A young female GIRAFFE was right outside the tent watching him shower. I could just imagine that she had a story to tell about this male human.
Time to Nap and shower for the Afternoon game drive and late dinner. We saw a pack of wild African dogs, a very rare sighting, here. The adult dogs were re-introduced, and have been very successful with about a dozen puppies. The males feed the puppies by regurgitating chunks of meat which the puppy pack swarms over. They are renowned hunters as a pack with a 90 % success rate. Beautiful to watch. Tomorrow have a long flight to the Baines Camp in Botswana, where we will be for three nights.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Friday, October 3, 2008
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Baines Camp, Botswana
Saturday, Baines Camp in the Okavango Delta
After a long flight (4,4 hours total, two hops) we arrived in a beautiful, wet part of Botswana, We landed at Francisville for av gas and to pay landing fees. The currency is Pula. The forms used carbon paper. We had a lunch packed for us at Chupangu and ate enroute, We landed at Stanley’s on a dirt strip and a Toyota land cruiser and our driver and guide Martin helped push the aircraft to a suitable spot. No electric fence here, the guides cut thorn bushes and cover the tires, a delicacy for baboons. We then headed for Baines Camp-45 minutes of bouncing, fording water that was so high it went over the hood of the vehicle and into the floor of the vehicle. Baines Camp is beautiful; buildings build on stilts and connected by raised walkways. The construction is amazing-the people collected aluminum cans, sealed in wire mesh and Hessian panels and finished with an elephant dung plaster. Only 5 rooms and 9 guests! The place is run by a young Irish woman who has been here for 10 years and 4 months ago married Charles, whose family owns a winery in Cape Town. Our room is darling, a king size bed, covered in mosquito netting, that they roll out on our deck so we sleep under the stars. Water and wet lands surround is and the hippos are in the camp. An elephant hangs out in the camp. Like other camps we are free to walk around but after dark we are escorted around. The game drive last night was great, we saw all the usual and two spotted hyena puppies (? They are in the cat family) and they were so friendly I thought they would get in the vehicle! I think the mother was off hunting as we had seen a female adult earlier in the evening. We returned to camp around 8, took quick showers and gathered for cocktails on the deck with the other guests around a firepit. Very lively group, the Duff family from Michigan/London and his 3 adult children and one of their spouses. A nurse from Orange County rounded out the guests and Chas and Semma joined us. We ate at one large table and the wine and food was the best yet.
During the night we were awakend by elephants and hippos foraging right below our beds. In the morning we could see the dung and footprints in the mud right below our beds.
Around 5:30 we were awakened from our outdoor bed by a gentle voice. We found tea and rusks waiting on a table inside. We washed our faces and brushed our teeth and layered up, ate a quick breakfast in the dining area and headed out in two large vehicles to meet up with Doug and Sandi Groves (for more information and a look at the elephants to Living with Elephants on the internet.) and their family of three elephants
Botswana is home to more elephants than anywhere else on the planet-25%. For the next 6 hours we learned more about these wonderful animals and grew to love them. Doug and Sandy’s mission is to educate people about them and to raise these three as healthy elephants that are truly ambassadors for their wild counterparts. We were allowed to touch them and compare the different specialized parts of their bodies. The bull weighs about 5 tons. I could just stretch my arms around his forleg. He entertained by stealing hats and putting them on his head. The two females were equally social. At one point Doug offered me cough drop and bent down to open his canvas satchel to get it out. The smallest female reached in with her trunk and took out a paper fan which she handed to Bev. I got some elephant mucus soaked cough drops which I gamely sucked on. One would not want to offend a animal the size of these. At round noon we found ourselves under some trees enjoying a wonderful lunch. The elephants ate nearby, a variety of elephant treats that had been trucked in.
After a short nap I am attempting to catch up on this blog that will be posted one of these days.
The Okavango Delta seems suited to be an elephant habitat, lush and green and with enough foliage to provide these huge animals the food they need without leaving a scarred landscape of trees ripped out of the group and bark eaten trunks. The down side of this beautiful area is the biting flies and humid heat. Mornings and evening are very pleasant but midday is hot.
Baines Camp has a free laundry service and we needed it after this morning. We hugged elephants, played with their trunks, walked with them with their trucks on our shoulders, were kissed by them, and heard a chorus of their vocalizations (which sound very much like a didgeridoo.
I have not detailed the animals lately because they are so common. Who would imagine that we could get rather blasé about seeing a giraffe or a troop of baboons, wonderful birds. They are everywhere and watching them is so enlightening. The guides are very knowledgeable and Martin has a great sense of humor and a great driver. The vehicle HAS a snorkel like thing that allows it to go into deep water.
Around 5:30 we were awakened from our outdoor bed by a gentle voice. We found tea and rusks waiting on a table inside. We washed our faces and brushed our teeth and layered up, ate a quick breakfast in the dining area and headed out in two large vehicles to meet up with Doug and Sandi Groves (for more information and a look at the elephants to Living with Elephants on the internet.) and their family of three elephants
Botswana is home to more elephants than anywhere else on the planet-25%. For the next 6 hours we learned more about these wonderful animals and grew to love them. Doug and Sandy’s mission is to educate people about them and to raise these three as healthy elephants that are truly ambassadors for their wild counterparts. We were allowed to touch them and compare the different specialized parts of their bodies. The bull weighs about 5 tons. I could just stretch my arms around his forleg. He entertained by stealing hats and putting them on his head. The two females were equally social. At one point Doug offered me cough drop and bent down to open his canvas satchel to get it out. The smallest female reached in with her trunk and took out a paper fan which she handed to Bev. I got some elephant mucus soaked cough drops which I gamely sucked on. One would not want to offend a animal the size of these. At round noon we found ourselves under some trees enjoying a wonderful lunch. The elephants ate nearby, a variety of elephant treats that had been trucked in.
After a short nap I am attempting to catch up on this blog that will be posted one of these days.
The Okavango Delta seems suited to be an elephant habitat, lush and green and with enough foliage to provide these huge animals the food they need without leaving a scarred landscape of trees ripped out of the group and bark eaten trunks. The down side of this beautiful area is the biting flies and humid heat. Mornings and evening are very pleasant but midday is hot.
Baines Camp has a free laundry service and we needed it after this morning. We hugged elephants, played with their trunks, walked with them with their trucks on our shoulders, were kissed by them, and heard a chorus of their vocalizations (which sound very much like a didgeridoo.
I have not detailed the animals lately because they are so common. Who would imagine that we could get rather blasé about seeing a giraffe or a troop of baboons, wonderful birds. They are everywhere and watching them is so enlightening. The guides are very knowledgeable and Martin has a great sense of humor and a great driver. The vehicle HAS a snorkel like thing that allows it to go into deep water.
The preserve is owned by the government and operated for the local people. They were all enthusiastic about the efforts made by to government to boost employment. They want high end, low impact tourism and are working toward that goal. Botswana has been blessed with a non corrupt government and tribes that almost always got along. The curse is aids, spread predominantly by heterosexual contact. There are huge efforts made to educate the public on prevention.
Game Drives
The reason you come is to see the animals. They are habituated to the open landrovers and ignore you so long as you do not break the outline of the vehicle. Standing up or getting out rings the dinner bell for the predators. So long as you stay in the landrover the animals allow you to get quite close=touching distance in some cases=a herd of elephants-and within 6 or 8 feet in the case of lions. Leopards are more like ten feet, and the antelope are skittish. You take a morning drive at about 5:30 unil about 10:00, with a tea break. In SA the driver is armed with a large caliber rifle, and the tracker, sitting like an off center hood ornament on the front of the car is not armed. Before dismounting for the tea break they check the area for predators. Bad form to have your guests eaten.
The guides and trackers are amazing-full of knowledge about where to find the animals, and everything about the animals themselves. We were a little intimadated at first to look at a pride of lions from about 8 feet away. Elephants, in a herd, surround the car and continue with their forest renovation-eating trees, upending them to get at the roots, etc. The tracker will see someing on the ground, jump off and disappear into the bush. Later he will return and guide us to the next animal. Great fun.
The morning drive ends back at camp with a brunch, and then a nap to prepare for the afternoon drive. This is much like the morning one except for the "Sundowner". This consists of gin and tonic, or whatever else you want, while you observe the African sun set over the bush. You then set out for a hour or two of driving in the dark with the tracker using a spotlight to find animals. After the drive you hit the showers and prepre for the evcning meal. Then to bed because it starts all over the next day.
The guides and trackers are amazing-full of knowledge about where to find the animals, and everything about the animals themselves. We were a little intimadated at first to look at a pride of lions from about 8 feet away. Elephants, in a herd, surround the car and continue with their forest renovation-eating trees, upending them to get at the roots, etc. The tracker will see someing on the ground, jump off and disappear into the bush. Later he will return and guide us to the next animal. Great fun.
The morning drive ends back at camp with a brunch, and then a nap to prepare for the afternoon drive. This is much like the morning one except for the "Sundowner". This consists of gin and tonic, or whatever else you want, while you observe the African sun set over the bush. You then set out for a hour or two of driving in the dark with the tracker using a spotlight to find animals. After the drive you hit the showers and prepre for the evcning meal. Then to bed because it starts all over the next day.
Chapangu, Thorneybush, South Africa
On the 22nd we fueled up the 182 and took off from Lanseria airport, just North of Jo’Burg. It was very interesting from the air. The townships are small huts of corrugated tin and shiny from the air. Dirt roads and walking paths, no trees or grass, no cars, concrete. In contrast to suburbs with lush lawns and trees, huge shopping centers that act as entertainment spots as well as shopping. The contrast is unbelievable. As we flew southeast we saw lots of mining and green valleys (farming) and erosion resulting from the harvest of farmed exotic woods.
Communicating with air traffic control is interesting and challenging. Not only do they have strong (and differing) accents depending if they are Afrikaans, English, or African, they also speak very fast and use different terminology. The flight went fine, and we buzzed the unattended airfield to scare off any animals that might be on or near the runway. Hank’s had an accident a few years ago when a giraffe ran onto the runway and was struck by the airplane. No one hurt on the airplane, but the giraffe was killed and the airplane damages. So, he counsels us to be careful.
When we landed at Thorneybush airport, a private game preserve with several camps including Chapangu , our first lodge, we were met by an open Land Rover and Brendan, the manager of our lodge and our guide on the safari drives. We drove 5 minutes to the Chapangu Lodge and were greeted with lemonade and shown to our tent cabin. Lovely thatched and open to the air lodge rooms complete with a wine cellar. Our cabin is canvas, concrete floors, king size bed, air conditioning, desk, bathroom with a shower and porch facing the bush which contains a large outdoor bathtub. At three in the afternoon we ate a lunch and met the other guests, One American couple, probably late 60’s and a young French couple, Australian couple, One Kenyon with a girlfriend from Singapore. Everyone but the Americans were younger. Meals are communal at large tables at three different sites. Pure luxury! After lunch we layered up for the first game drive. We got with the French couple and she was very good at spotting game with a “oh lala” and it was everywhere! I was not prepared for how close to the open Landrover! We had a driver and guide (Brendan) and a tracker, who sat on a precarious little seat on the front of the 11 passenger open vehicle. The animals are unafraid of the large vehicles and do not seem to realize that the humans are a potential threat.
Communicating with air traffic control is interesting and challenging. Not only do they have strong (and differing) accents depending if they are Afrikaans, English, or African, they also speak very fast and use different terminology. The flight went fine, and we buzzed the unattended airfield to scare off any animals that might be on or near the runway. Hank’s had an accident a few years ago when a giraffe ran onto the runway and was struck by the airplane. No one hurt on the airplane, but the giraffe was killed and the airplane damages. So, he counsels us to be careful.
When we landed at Thorneybush airport, a private game preserve with several camps including Chapangu , our first lodge, we were met by an open Land Rover and Brendan, the manager of our lodge and our guide on the safari drives. We drove 5 minutes to the Chapangu Lodge and were greeted with lemonade and shown to our tent cabin. Lovely thatched and open to the air lodge rooms complete with a wine cellar. Our cabin is canvas, concrete floors, king size bed, air conditioning, desk, bathroom with a shower and porch facing the bush which contains a large outdoor bathtub. At three in the afternoon we ate a lunch and met the other guests, One American couple, probably late 60’s and a young French couple, Australian couple, One Kenyon with a girlfriend from Singapore. Everyone but the Americans were younger. Meals are communal at large tables at three different sites. Pure luxury! After lunch we layered up for the first game drive. We got with the French couple and she was very good at spotting game with a “oh lala” and it was everywhere! I was not prepared for how close to the open Landrover! We had a driver and guide (Brendan) and a tracker, who sat on a precarious little seat on the front of the 11 passenger open vehicle. The animals are unafraid of the large vehicles and do not seem to realize that the humans are a potential threat.
Internet Problems
We cannot upload photos here in Zambia for reasons I do not understand. We will try and post the text, and the pictures when we return to SA tomorrow.
Ron and Bev
Ron and Bev
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Johannesburg
Tuesday, Sept 23
My sister Anne’s birthday and no way to communicate. We have had no internet service since we have landed in South Africa. It seems that the hotel in Jo’berg had different software that was not compatible with Vista. Ah well, we have been so busy.
Met at the airport by the Hanks. They are Americans that run Hanks Aero Adventures. We checked into Toadbury Hall, after the 11 hour flight from Paris. Not too tired as we had slept and the time zone was the same as Normandy so we were arriving at local time and our time-8 PM. Toadbury Hall was soo cute. The grounds included a chapel for wedding and lovely dinning room and public rooms. We will post photos. Our cottage was covered in Wisteria, purple, and at least 600 sq. feet. The main building was thatched reed-a little different than English thatch as you could see it from the inside. We were greeted with a glass of sherry and met the two English couples that were flying out on Hanks planes, a day later than we were.
The next day the women went to a lovely botanical garden and a game park where we actually petted lion cubs. We also saw African wild dogs which are difficult to see in Nature. The men were being checked out for South African pilot licenses and taking check rides. It was windy and challenging. The next day we joined the men for a practice flight with an instructor and went to the Hanks’ African style home for lunch and checkout. The house was lovely and Christina and Nick are gracious and run a tight ship. He looks and dresses like an Arizona cowboy, tall and lean. She has a PhD from Brown in Anthropology and they are a great team. She gave me drawings and a packet of currency (Rand, Pulas and dollars) for fees and the visa to get into Zambia. She also outfitted me with a pilot shirt and epaulettes to make me look like a pilot as it makes is easier to cross borders if you look “official.”
My sister Anne’s birthday and no way to communicate. We have had no internet service since we have landed in South Africa. It seems that the hotel in Jo’berg had different software that was not compatible with Vista. Ah well, we have been so busy.
Met at the airport by the Hanks. They are Americans that run Hanks Aero Adventures. We checked into Toadbury Hall, after the 11 hour flight from Paris. Not too tired as we had slept and the time zone was the same as Normandy so we were arriving at local time and our time-8 PM. Toadbury Hall was soo cute. The grounds included a chapel for wedding and lovely dinning room and public rooms. We will post photos. Our cottage was covered in Wisteria, purple, and at least 600 sq. feet. The main building was thatched reed-a little different than English thatch as you could see it from the inside. We were greeted with a glass of sherry and met the two English couples that were flying out on Hanks planes, a day later than we were.
The next day the women went to a lovely botanical garden and a game park where we actually petted lion cubs. We also saw African wild dogs which are difficult to see in Nature. The men were being checked out for South African pilot licenses and taking check rides. It was windy and challenging. The next day we joined the men for a practice flight with an instructor and went to the Hanks’ African style home for lunch and checkout. The house was lovely and Christina and Nick are gracious and run a tight ship. He looks and dresses like an Arizona cowboy, tall and lean. She has a PhD from Brown in Anthropology and they are a great team. She gave me drawings and a packet of currency (Rand, Pulas and dollars) for fees and the visa to get into Zambia. She also outfitted me with a pilot shirt and epaulettes to make me look like a pilot as it makes is easier to cross borders if you look “official.”
Safe and Sound in Zambia
We have been out of touch since leaving France as the internet is hard to access. Some of the camps have only radio contact with the outside world. We are now in Zambia at the River Club, an old English style resort overlooking the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls. We overflew the falls before landing at Livingston, the town named after Dr. Livingston of "Dr. Livingston, I presume" fame. We arrived by boat and our guide advised against swimming due to the large number of crocs and hippos. We took his advice. We will try and publish the posts we prepared while in the bush while we are here.
Ron and Bev
Ron and Bev
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